Kirkland 22 Year Speyside Single Malt Sherry Cask Finish

AGED WHISKY SHOWDOWN Bowmore 18 Highland Park 19 Dimensions (Duncan Taylor) Balvenie Portwood 21 Kirkland Speyside Single Malt 22 (Alexander Murray) Continuing to work through bottles in my collection that I’ve yet to review. This grouping is admittedly somewhat incongruous, with Islay (Bowmore), Highland (Highland Park), and two Speysides (Balvenie, Kirkland). The common denominator is the age statements, which range from 18 to 22 years. As with previous “Showdowns,” the point here isn’t to necessarily declare an absolute winner (though one may arise), but rather to experience an interesting comparison and share those results. I’ve arranged these from youngest to oldest. Bowmore 18 Color is second darkest of the group, and virtually identical to the Balvenie 21: clear Pantone 153. Nose shows banana bread, and some mild Islay typicity with light iodine, saline, and gentle peaty smoke. The palate shows the slightest bit of roundness but the fruit drops off and a little white pepper spice kicks in. Something akin to passionfruit begins the medium-length finish, which is then usurped by some light char and smoke, but the overall effect is thin; almost watery. Unfortunately, Bowmore 18 has caramel coloring added. I really have no idea why any distillery would want to do this. It detracts from the overall experience: burning peat to malt the barley is as old-school as Scotch whisky gets. This is an 18-year-old whisky, which cannot be faked: why adulterate the age, tradition, and experience with adding coloring? It boggles the mind. Bowmore 18 can be found for around $150 today. It’s certainly not off-putting, but it’s also not particularly memorable, and the added coloring is for all intents and purposes lying. What is the point? What is there to hide? What is the rationale? Would I buy it again? No: on both a price/value basis and disdain for their coloring practice. 3.0 on the Distiller scale. 43% ABV. Highland Park 19 Dimensions (Duncan Taylor) This whisky is the lightest of the group in color, and appears analogous to Pantone 130. The nose is a bit reticent, begrudgingly offering up apples, honey, apricots, a cool eucalyptus note, and a medicinal quality that is likely ethanol-driven; the effect is not dissimilar to the Hall’s honey-lemon cough-drop aromatics that I get from Nikka Coffey Malt Whisky (reviewed Sep 21, 2023). But then cocoa makes an appearance. The palate turns up the volume considerably on the initial aromatics, and shows some viscosity. The transition from palate to finish brings generous spiciness, coffee, the cocoa again, and very gentle, lingering smoke. The Highland Park 19 Dimensions is a whisky that requires time in order to coax out its complexities. The bottle was a very generous gift from a good friend, so the question is not whether I’d buy it again, but rather if I’d buy it at all. It can be purchased for around $225—if you can find it. I’d put it in the nice-to-have rather than must-have category (with the caveat that there really is no “must” regarding any whisk(e)y in the grand scheme of things). It’s wonderful if you’re price-insensitive, and I’m very grateful to have it. I no longer possess any Highland Park 18, which would be an obvious (and interesting) comparison. 4.0 on the Distiller scale. 52.7% ABV. Non-chill filtered. Distilled 6/1999; bottled 6/2018. Cask # 501104; Bottle # 236/352. The light color suggests no added coloring. Balvenie Portwood 21 Clear Pantone 153 in color; indistinguishable from the Bowmore 18. The nose is cautious, and like Carl Sandberg’s “Fog,” comes in on little cat feet, displaying a feline oscillation that wavers between port and deep chocolate—just because it wants to—and adds mocha, sandalwood, and honey. The palate is a slow roll into more chocolate, which nearly conceals the alcohol; there’s no real spice in the transition from palate to finish, which is long and chocolaty. Did I mention chocolate? For me, Balvenie is a traditional benchmark whisky with a modern twist—that twist being the various wood finishes it employs (rum, sherry, port). It combines tradition and modernity in a style that favors tradition in terms of its poise and refinement. It exhibits a confidence that has no need for self-aggrandizement. The Portwood 21 is consistent with that Balvenie ethos. This whisky is not cheap, and can currently be purchased for around $300. Would I buy it again? I paid significantly less when I bought it, but if price were not an issue, the answer is yes (to be clear, I would not buy every whisk(e)y, even with unlimited funds). Balvenie Portwood 21 is wonderfully cerebral, in part because it’s a little monochromatic in its chocolatiness, and it requires some thinking if you want to dissect it. Or, you can just enjoy the chocolate milkshake. 4.0 on the Distiller scale. 43% ABV. Kirkland Speyside Single Malt 22 (Alexander Murray) This whisky is the darkest of the bunch, consistent with the sherry cask finishing; clear Pantone 160. No-doubt sherry nose: toffee, chocolate, dates, strawberry preserves, and dark gingerbread (the bread, not the cookies). Cracker Jack times two. The palate shows wonderful intensity, finishing long and sweet, with chocolate, peanut brittle, and a pleasant touch of sweet café Cubano, with its basso continuo espresso bitterness. Costco is the largest liquor retailer in the world, and as a result has the wherewithal to affix its Kirkland brand to high-quality white-label offerings, as is the case here. Purists may want to turn up their collective noses, but there’s no arguing the value aspect. Who knows how Alexander Murray sourced this? But the fact that it is sourced doesn’t necessarily mean that it didn’t make the cut for whoever the distiller is, and even if that is the case, the point is moot: how many very nice 22-year-old whiskies are you going to find for $80? One. This one. Would I buy it again? I don’t think that this expression is available any longer, but I bought two when I purchased them, and this one is bottle #1. So, yes. Unbelievable value. 4.25 on the Distiller scale. 46% ABV. In terms of price, the Kirkland (Costco) stole the show with its 22-year age statement and $80 price tag. The Highland Park and Balvenie bottlings were each wonderful, for different reasons. The Bowmore was demonstrably inferior to the other three—independent of its “islay-ness” (I adore Laphroaig and Lagavullin). I concluded the tasting with one final single taste of each one in quick succession, and confirmed by more lengthy assessments. The Bowmore is unchanged; the Highland Park is by far the most powerful and youthful; the Balvenie is expansive and orgasmic; and the Kirkland is still very, very good. N.B.: All spirits tasted neat in a Glencairn glass.

Color is rich mahogany, doesn’t seem chill-filtered, although it doesn’t state so on the bottle. Medium to high viscosity. Nose is delicate, with notes of fruit, raisins, black pepper, and caramel. Sherry is very pronounced even though it has only been finished in sherry casks for 6 months (maybe they didn’t quite rinse them before pouring this in?) Palate is sweet and creamy, with lots of fruit, nuts, oak, and vanilla. A touch of bitterness on the back is indicative of the age statement (22 years). Finish is medium length, but pleasant, with the same fruit and bitter vanilla notes. A splash of water in this 46% ABV dram helps open its floral side, and honey and chocolate notes start to appear. It adds balance, and rounds the dram pretty nicely. Finish gains a touch of smokiness on the back that you would typically see in older whisky. As time passes, the nose and the palate do change somewhat towards a more floral character, but not as much as an old Glendronach. It doesn’t take away from the character of this whisky though, and it remains a very pleasant and greatly enjoyable dram. Absolutely worth it’s $80 price tag.

Neck Pour: just opened Nose: dark fruits, honey, ripe apple - i like this aspect the most. Taste: thinner than I expected but reasonable for the 46% ABV. Oak and malt with a definite sherry influence/ essence, good amount of vegetal pepper. Finish: astringent on the sides of the mouth, dark fruit lingers for a few a minutes. Value: was excited for this but am a little disappointed, hopefully it opens up a bit as the bottle goes down. P.S. 2 months later, 1/2 a bottle down, and this has improved immensely. Numerically only popped up 0.75 points on this site, but the early vegetal note has completely fallen away, and a solid oak and sherry note are taking the lead with a cinnamon apple flourish. Going to buy 1, possibly 2, backup bottle(s) at this price. 5.0 - go out and buy all of the stock you can find. 4.0 - must buy at least one bottle before you die. 3.0 - solid, must try at a bar, or mooch from a friend. 2.0 - didn't like it, you may. 1.0 - you may have the palate of my dog, and he licks his own ass.

Nose: rich dark fruits, raisins, orange marmalade, grown up dark candied note that you would get from a high end boutique candy store-not a simple cheap candied note, deep malt, caramel, sherry, old leather bound books in a private library that’s well taken care of, baking spice or nutmeg like note, very light mild char or smoke like from a good quality pipe tobacco in that old library, hint of a sweet light floral note, very well rounded, no sharp notes at all. Taste: dark fruits, orange marmalade, pleasant spice, tobacco smoke comes through in an enjoyable way, leather, nice warmth on the finish, lingers well for a moment and fades away evenly leaving the old leather and spice notes behind. This is by far one of the best drams I’ve ever had for the price that it’s at. Let it sit for 15-20 minutes and you’ll see the change from when you first poured it. Get some and treat yourself to an occasional dram of a well made scotch.

Smells like caramel, maple syrup, vanilla, and floral notes. Has a bright spicy and bitter tobacco starting profile followed by smoke and woody flavors. The sherry part (dried plums) and apple mash toward the end are subtle for me, but it finishes sweet. It has a pretty pronounced peaty smokiness. Definitely has the oakiness from charred wood! I can only slightly see where they are saying orange marmalade (sweetness and bitterness), but its pretty subtle. Adding a bit of water makes it smell sweeter and more floral like honey, with vanilla and smoke. It is lot softer and smoother going down with a stronger floral and briney coastal flavor followed by peat and oak. Long finish of old leather and tobacco, which moves to grape skins (without the tannins) and dusty old roasted coffee, root beer, and marshmallow. Sherry finish is more pronounced.

Truly intriguing pour to ring in 2021. Great contrast to the kirkland 20 year, and admittedly I sway back and forth on which I prefer (both are superior to the 18). Dark fruit (raisin, plum) dominate the nose alongside baking spices. The nose is soft...almost too soft, but inviting nonetheless. Dark brown sugar and leather notes round it off. Flavor is similarly soft, but damned if this isn't one of the longest finishes I've experienced in my neophyte scotch career. I literally typed that entire sentence and it just keeps evolving. The dark fruit is evident and depending on how long you hold onto the sip it drinks at 80 proof or 115 proof. Mild marmalade/ tropical fruit flavors with the ending sherry giving the full ride. I've nipped better drams, but this is pretty damned nice for the price