Laphroaig Càirdeas 2019 Triple Wood Cask Strength

ISLAY SHOWDOWN 3: CASK STRENGTH DIVISION Laphroaig 10 Cask Strength vs Laphroaig Cairdeas Triple Wood vs Ardbeg Corryvreckan Tasting whiskies side-by-side is both fun and enlightening: you think you know a particular one pretty well, and when tasted next to something else, well—it can change its colors. In this, the third installment of my Islay showdown (see “NEW AND OLD ISLAY SHOWDOWN: Lagavulin 8 vs Laphroaig 10”, 7/27/22; and “ISLAY SHOWDOWN 2: HEAVYWEIGHT DIVISION”, 7/29/22), we look at three high-octane bottlings: Laphroaig Cask Strength; Laphroaig Cairdeas Triple Wood; and Ardbeg Corrvreckan. As I’ve already done Ardbeg Corryvreckan vs Uigeadail (6/2/22), I didn’t want to include both, and excluded the Oogie due to its higher sherry finish, which is slightly more atypical of Islay. I would’ve liked to have not had two Laphroaigs, but my other Islay whiskies aren’t cash strength (something I’ll need to rectify). I’m not a fan of adding water to cask strength bourbons: in fact, I never do it. There are two broad reasons for this. First is the fact that distillers themselves don’t do it. If a distiller does offer different versions of the same whisky, it is just two—the difference being only the amount of water used to dilute the cask-strength offering (if an offering even exists) to the “normal” or “standard” bottling. Let’s use Laphroaig 10 as an example: the Cask Strength (batch 013) is 57.9% ABV, while the “normal” Laphroaig 10 is simply the cash strength diluted with water to 43% ABV. If Laphroaig—or any other distiller—wanted to showcase different amounts of dilution to see how varying amounts “opens it up,” they could have a marketing field day and offer 46%, 49%, 52%, 55%, and then the normal cask strength to put these dilutions—that’s what they are—on full display. While this may be an extreme example, finding the optimal ABV (i.e., dilution) could be done behind the scenes. Laphroaig’s Distillery Manager, Barry MacAffer, could determine this to optimize the whisky’s distinct characteristic. Obviously the ideal is not the 43% ABV version: 43% is just a commonplace number amongst numerous distillers that is somewhat above the bare minimum to give an impression of “quality,” signaling that they’re not focused entirely on economics. Nor is the ideal necessarily the cask-strength version. If adding some water to cask strength whisky “opens it up,” why wouldn’t the distiller decide how much water provides the optimal complexity and flavor profile, and then offer 1) a cask-strength version for the purist, 2) a “lower end” version to maximize economics for the masses, and 3) an optimized ABV which the distiller defines as ideal (and further, this is another deft marketing stroke as it would invariably change year to year). Second, when a consumer adds water, it is being done entirely subjectively, with no rhyme or reason, whether it is dropped meticulously with a medicine dropper, or splashed by pouring a bit of water or even dipping one’s fingers in water and flicking it in. Not only is the amount of water subjective, but the amount of whisky that is being adulterated typically isn’t known either, and thus the ratio (i.e., ABV) is nothing but a guess. And don’t even get me started with ice, which is double jeopardy: not only is the amount of (frozen) water not known, but cooling the spirit dampens the flavor profile (both taste and nose). It’s simple physics: molecules in motion. Colder temperature slows them down, which diminishes whatever the whisky does have to offer. Of course, drinkers are free to imbibe as they please. Lahphroaig 10 Cask Strength Batch 013 (L10CS) First thought on nosing was apples—distilled apple resin—followed by molasses, clove, rosemary-infused grapefruit sorbet (melted to room temperature), cocoa powder, orange creamsicle (distilled nectar thereof), maple syrup, some oaky vanilla, and some balanced ethanol. There’s smoky peat, of course. And the requisite iodine and seaweed. The heat (57.9% ABV) appears again midpalate where a more medicinal characteristic pops up, and everything is put in a blender that somehow pulls everything together into an inexplicable whole. Finishes with malted barley and bacon fat. On the orgasmic spectrum. 4.75 on the Distiller scale. Laphroaig Cairdeas Triple Wood (LCTW) In contradistinction to the L10CS, this is NAS (no age statement). Much sweeter nose with smoky peat caramel, vanilla, sugared cappuccino, brown sugar, milk chocolate. This sweetness follows on the palate, where the heat is more noticeable than the L10CS: it is a couple of percentage points higher, but the multiple variations on the sweet theme doesn’t do as good a job of taming the heat as does the heterogenous complexity of the L10CS. There is a slight sherry-influenced hazelnut on the finish, along with some tannic woodiness. 4.0 on the Distiller scale. Ardbeg Corryvreckan (AC) NAS, like the LCTW. Lightest in color of the three, with a clear straw color. Surprisingly bready and barley-like in comparison to the previous two. Also smoked ham, the “Islay troika” (smoky peat, seaweed, iodine), and an underlying sweetness but all of it is subtle in comparison (did anyone ever call anything Ardbeg “subtle”?!). More high-throttle and Ardbeg-like on the palate, but lacking the ostentatiousness of the L10CS and LCTW. Finishes sweet and heat, with a little pepper. 4.0 on the Distiller scale (vs 4.5 previously). Ardbeg Corryvreckan is a well-known (and well-loved) Islay whisky. But next to these two Laphroaigs, it is not what I expected. I did a side-by-side with Ardbeg Corryvreckan and Uigeadial some weeks back (6/2/22). It’s worth repeating here what I wrote on AC: “Nose shows plenty of smoky peat, Islay iodine and salinity, Japanese nori, asphalt, and a touch of bacon fat. There is a penetrating, mouthcoating entry, adding chocolate to the mix, and with a spicy, white pepper finish. The 57.1% ABV is a nice counterweight to Corry’s full-throttle style.” Next to the two Laphroaigs, AC is a different whisky. This is my first experience with the Laphroaig 10 Cask Strength, and will not be my last. It’s the clear winner in the showdown, and it’s hard to imagine improving upon it. The Laphroaig Cairdeas Triple Wood is a very nice second, some distance back, but nicely sweet for an Islay whisky. The Ardbeg disappointed in comparison. It’s still good, but down a couple notches when last tasted against its sweeter brother, Uigeadial. N.B. All spirits tasted neat in a Glencairn glass.

LAPHROAIG SHOWDOWN LAPHROAIG 10-YEAR LAPHROAIG CASK STRENGTH BATCH 013 LAPHROAIG CÀIDERAS 2019 TRIPLE WOOD CASK STRENGTH LAPHROAIG 15-YEAR 200TH ANNIVERSARY I sampled these over the course of three days. Day one was the 10-year and the Cask Strength; day two was the Càideras and the 15-year; and day three was all four of them together. I took preliminary notes on the first two days. On day three, I decided to rearrange the order, from sophisticated to more pugilistic—which happened to correspond to age in descending order, and ABV in ascending order. At any rate, on the third day I initially tasted them in this order, but then went back and forth between them all randomly. LAPHROAIG 15-YEAR 200TH ANNIVERSARY Brilliant amber color (Pantone 123). More sophisticated nose than the youthful and flamboyant Càirdeas: orange zest, porridge, capocollo, grilled asparagus, peach, baked apples. Later: cantaloupe (again). Mouthfeel not very viscous despite the 15-year age statement and wood contact. Palate is sweet with pear compote, vanilla, a little butterscotch, bacon, and honey. A touch of white pepper on the finish, with honey and dry leathery notes. The 15-year displays a muted Islay typicity; its characteristics are far less ostentatious than the other three. But that doesn’t mean its lackadaisical. Think of a bell curve: somewhat subtle on the nose (though still very complex), more robust on the palate, and then finishing elegantly. Think cozy cabin or wood-paneled library, fire in the fireplace, cold fall mist outside (Scotland or elsewhere), Mendelssohn’s Hebrides overture in the background. And this whisky, neat, with the bottle handy for a second pour. Pensive, contemplative, and refined. A quick Internet search shows that this expression can be found today for $500-$600 (it was a limited release). I think I paid around $100 a few years back, and I’m happy I did. Would I buy it again? No. I’m very glad that I did buy it at a far cheaper price, though. It’s wonderful, and I’m happy to be able to experience it (I’ve got a quarter of a bottle left). 4.5 on the Distiller scale (unchanged from my review on 8/12/22). 43% ABV. 15-year age statement. LAPHROAIG 10-YEAR Subtler amber color (Pantone 142). Kelp, saline, iodine, dank basement, and yes, burning peat. Terracotta pot (oddly like a note on some sangioveses), only this pot is of course soaked in seawater. Tire shop. Burning resin. And there are faint fruity elements: apple juice and overripe banana and cantaloupe. Peanut brittle (hadn’t gotten that before). On the palate, some of that melon sweetness returns, and continues on the finish, before being covered in ash. Laphroaig is an iconic Islay whisky and can be found for around $50. Would I buy it again? Yes. 4.25 on the Distiller scale. 43% ABV. 10-year age statement. LAPHROAIG CASK STRENGTH BATCH 013 Slightly darker amber than the 10-Year (Pantone 143). How much room do we have for the litany of descriptors? Band-Aid. Engine Oil. Engine sludge. Sea-Breeze (the facial astringent) and sea breeze (the wind off the ocean). Propylene glycol (a.k.a. antifreeze). Nori. Wakame (i.e., kelp). Betadyne. Funk. Malted milk balls. Cocoa powder (especially immediately following the 10-Year). Alcohol unnoticeable on the nose. Oily and mouthcoating on the palate, with penetrating honey and candied ginger. Then the cask-strength alcohol, but held in check by everything else. Long finish: ash-coated smoky butterscotch. The Cask Strength is otherworldly. Not only does it have loads of complexity in terms of breadth, but the depth itself is deep. The bottle I own is the only LCS I’ve ever had. When I bought it, it was the only one that I’d seen in the wild. The Cask Strength can be found online for under $90. At that price, this may be the best value in the entire world of whisk(e)y. Would I buy this again? Yes. The nectar of Islay. 4.75 on the Distiller scale. 57.9% ABV. 10-year age statement. Batch 013. Bottled January 2021. LAPHROAIG CÀIRDEAS 2019 TRIPLE WOOD CASK STRENGTH Deep orange amber (Pantone 144). Peat smoke, ash, iodine, tangy barbecue sauce, wet cardboard box, tomato leaf, slightly overdone pancakes, carambola, concrete block, honeyed orange, a bit of caramel, and vanilla. On the palate: some light viscosity and sweetness, and 59.5% ABV makes a welcome appearance. Some honeyed sweetness on the finish, then white pepper, band-aid, iodine. Each expression of Laphroaig oozes complexity. Its Islay-ness terroir is far more evident than any Bordeaux or Burgundy; there’s no doubt whatsoever as to its birthplace. The Càirdeas adds another layer with the different cask finishes: bourbon, quarters, European oak, and Oloroso sherry. The quarter casks (I’m not aware of how much time the distillate is spent in them) in theory exposes more whisky to the wood, and somewhat obviates the lack of an age statement. I could nose this all night (I’d have to drink it too). It’s that good. The various releases can be found for $80-90. Would I buy it again? Yes. I rated it 4.0 on my last review (8/12/22). It’s better than that. 4.25 on the Distiller scale. 59.5% ABV. NAS. Non-chill filtered. These individual releases exhibit Laphroaig typicity, but are nevertheless distinctive. Each is a complex, thought-provoking whisky. What surprised me most about this Showdown was the fruitiness and gentle sweetness that I detected in each, which was modestly more than I’d recalled. Laphroaig’s descriptors are more than just “burning hospital.” Laphroaig’s special bottlings, like the Càirdeas, are more old-school and conservative than Ardbeg, for example, who are far more provocative with their oddball offerings. I appreciate their more traditional approach. While Laphroaig isn’t something I drink every day, I always want a few of their bottlings in my inventory. N.B.: All spirits tasted neat in a Glencairn glass.

So today Erik Wait posted a youtube video (check it out btw) on this whisky and he got into his scoring methods, and it got me think a bit about what I"m looking for and why these young peated whiskies can and do get such high scores and why, I'm honestly rarely blown away. So I thought I'd put out what I'm looking for and where this whisky comes up, something I tend to not spend a lot of time on with my notes here, but maybe worth looking at. 1) Distinct intrinsic quality. What I mean is that all else equal we generally know what is and isn't a quality/expensive note. Young whisky vs old whisky can both be good and bad, but when we say we taste a young whisky, we or at least I mean I'm getting notes of new make which are flaws imo. Conversely, enough oak to the point of bittering could be a nice complement to a finishing or sweet malt, but can very quickly turn to a huge flaw as well. Both "flaws" could be discussed as flaws where as intense and extreme smoke is often a sign of youth that is favorable much like rich oak or complex transitions and depth can be good notes on older whisky. 2) The way the whisky smells, and here I think many reviewers don't value this much, it's really about the flavor to them. For me not at all true, it's 60:40 once I start looking at 3.5+ star review scores. 3) I need depth, complexity, transitions, and nuance. It has to do a lot either in a simple note (a sherry bomb might not transition but that flavor can be incredibly complex in that one thing) or in how the whisky flavor changes before we get to the finish. 4) Finish can save a whisky or leave it completely underwhelming. 5) It has to in at least 2 of these areas really move me to get past a 3.5 So onto this one. Nose - sweet, a touch of plum pudding (I guess I kinda get the sherry cask here), oak is present, and the classic laphroiag malt where I get some citrus notes and some good vanilla as well here. Taste - I get some medicinal, some earthy notes, a lot of vanilla (I keep thinking this is a better 10 CS, but i guess I like the sherry/quarter cask with bourbon). Finish - it's medium, but there's not much here. It's medicinal, oak, and well a standard laphroaig finish. So why is this getting so much excitement? Well, it's big, bold, and there's a lot of shall we say unblended or not melded together flavors. This however does lend itself to having a fairly decent amount of complexity. There is a youthful note at the end as well, not so much unrefined but it wasn't ready for the show. But I don't think a lot of islay fans find this off or to be a flaw and if you expect that perhaps it isn't. Similarly, the finish is longer than the average dram thanks to the CS, but nothing is really happening...you just get to savor what is a very nice pleasant note. It's full body and mouth coating as heck which I love and I'm sure others are loving too. So for me this is a 3.5 though closer to a 3.25 than a 4.0. 2.0 being average, 3.0 very really very good, and 4 being outstanding...after that you're into the best of the best. Ultimately, the whisky is complex but not greatly so, the finish is long but not special, and the nose while very enjoyable doesn't make me want to keep coming back. For under 100 bucks this is a good value and in and of that perhaps some will score it higher.

Nose: Neat this is big, bold and assertive with sooty smoke against a dominating background of dense sweet oak. Sherry, tarred ropes, pine resin, fried walnuts, citrus peel, leather, cloves and strong tobacco all stand out clearly and there is a slight trace of vanilla and the usual Laphroaig licorice. However most of these aromas are submerged beneath a mountain of oak. With water a strong aroma of sawdust or pencil shavings emerges and the assertiveness of the nose is tamed, however it does lose a little character. Palate: Tasted neat it's a sledgehammer arrival of great complexity. Sweet cigar-smoke, kalamata olives in brine and olive oil, bitter dark chocolate, blackstrap molasses, licorice and black pepper. There is a complex and immense phenolic aspect to the palate which in combination with all the oak tannin produces a bitter herbal quality. With the addition of water the palate becomes considerably sweeter and more interesting with layered waxy lemon, fruity notes and many new oily nuances unleashed. The texture becomes creamier and more pleasing. While dilution is debatable as regards the nose, in the case of the palate I'd say it is mandatory. Finish: Very long. Smoke, phenols, vegemite and brine. The aftertaste is slightly salty and a little sour - it actually tastes like freshly cut peat moss and oak tannin. Adding water softens the finish considerably but does not damage it. Some sweetness is set free to balance the herbal bitterness, which is most welcome. By the way, the information on the Distiller listing for this is incorrect - it is 59.5% abv, not 51.4%. This is not a subtle whisky. It has all the nuance and expression of a runaway steam locomotive, and it smells like one too - at least one pulling several dozen carloads of fresh resinous timber. I'd also wager that the constituents of this are mostly quite young. It has none of the finesse of really old Laphroaig and it benefits notably from dilution (apart from the nose, which loses definition). While this is much more intense and spectacular than the regular Triple Wood I wouldn't want to drink it every day, or pay the going rate here of $275 a bottle. It's a side-show intended to stun and amaze, not a quiet evening's conversation. However I'd be fascinated to taste this again if they put it into a good refill bourbon cask and let it sit for another 10 years. I think it would then be something truly special. Many thanks to @Soba45 and @PBMichiganWolverine for the opportunity to taste this highly expressive whisky as a 30 ml sample. Also, as it's my last review of 2019 I'd like to extend my best wishes to everyone in the community for a happy, safe and prosperous 2020. May the force of whisky be with you, always. "Good" : 84/100 (3.75 stars)

The 2016-2018 releases established Cairdeas as a contender for my favorite product line in all of whisk(e)y. All 3 were stunning in different ways. I haven't had the standard release Triple Wood yet, but I loved the way that the 2017 took an already solid Quarter Cask to astonishing heights. Let's hope this one delivers at cask strength as well. Nose: The Laphroaig campfire smoke is there, but pretty muted compared to other releases. Th sea salt, brine, and seaweed are still there. Saltwater taffy, salted caramel, and pretzel rod. lots of salt. Smoked meats and chili, but again, it's quieter than I'd expect of Laphroaig. If you give it some time in the glass, these notes and the smoke start to pop out. Lime, grapefruit, and strawberry in the background. Vanilla and blackberry jam. Very nice peat bomb, with a twist. Palate: An interesting combination of smoky peat and sweet notes. Campfire smoke and iodine hit heavy. Lemon citrus, sea salt, brine, and seaweed. Smoked meat and black bean red pepper chili. Beyond the layers of standard Laphroaig goodness is some artificial candied sweetness. Strawberry, salted caramel, milk chocolate, vanilla, blackberry jam. Cinnamon red hots and more than a pinch of black pepper. Fantastic. Finish: Hot as hell, in a good way. You get just enough smoke from the campfire not to be uncomfortable. Strawberry and blackberry. Some citrus. All of the briny notes and then it's oak, cinnamon , and a ton of black pepper. Long as the day. It's a powerful whisky for certain. Tasty and interesting to boot. I like it a lot. But, it's a bit disjointed. Some of the notes just don't fit together. The transitions are rough. To be fair, I'm grading this against 2016-2018. It's inferior to all of the above. I set the bar high, and it didn't quite reach. But let's be clear, it's an exceptionally good whisky. At $75, it's a damn good value. If you're a Laphroaig fan, grab this. I need to give the standard Triple Wood a go after tasting this. I'll give this another go before I finalize this review, only because this line has been nothing but stellar. At any rate, this is a damn good drop.

Next up in my Laphroaig series, is a sample of the 2019 Caidreas Triple Wood that was generously provided by @ctbeck11 The nose starts with a mix of honey butter on toasted sourdough, smoked salmon and leather-bound books then light florals, blonde espresso and dark chocolate covered raisins followed by caramelized pears, grilled peaches and musty grapes that transitions to light ginger and freshly opened can of tennis balls with medium ethanol burn. The taste is a medium to full mouthfeel starting with creamy and slightly tart red berries before a moderate bitter spice that slowly fades to tangy barbecued brisket, grilled figs and freshly lit pipe tobacco then spicy dark chocolate mocha, mild ocean brine and toasted marshmallow followed by caramelized pears, sautéed strawberries and musty grapes that transitions to light ginger, diesel fumes and polished oak with high ethanol burn. The finish is long, starting with a mix of sweet orchard and sour berries that fades to tangy smoked brisket, dark chocolate mocha, asphalt, mild ocean brine and mild black tea. The nose is surprisingly mellow with this beautifully composed mix with sweet honey and toasted oak upfront underscored by lightly smoked meats that fade to slightly soured citrus that draws you in for a taste and quickly reminds you that this is nearly 60% ABV with a slightly sour berry uppercut to the taste buds before a moderate spice that eventually fades to rich barbecued meats, grilled fruits, berries and polished oak that finishes starting sweet with minor sourness before fading to rich barbecued meats and earthy spices that lingers for minutes after each sip. At a price of around $90 when these were released, I’d say these were very well-priced cask strength Islay offerings that were an interesting take on the Laphroaig profile that I’d happily buy a bottle of if I could find it for the same price today. Ratings for the series so far: 10-year cask strength batch 11- 3.75 10-year sherry oak finish- 4.0 Lore- 4.0 2019 Caidreas Triple Wood- 3.75