Russell's Reserve Single Barrel Bourbon

DISTILLER-SCORE SHOWDOWN: 95-POINT DISTILLER-RATED WHISKIES ELIJAH CRAIG BARREL PROOF B520 RUSSELL’S RESERVE SINGLE BARREL BOURBON JOHNNIE WALKER GREEN LABEL 15 YEAR For this Showdown, I decided to rank order my collection by the Distiller “expert” score in descending order (@distiller, @stephaniemoreno, why am I able to do this on the app, but not on the website?), and start from there. Previously, I reviewed six 97- or 96-point whiskies in my collection. For this Showdown, I’m going to use the 95-point benchmark, of which I own three (I thought I had four; my Collection list indicated that I still had the Maker’s Mark Wood Finishing Series 2021 FAE-01, but apparently I’d forgotten to mark it as already consumed). In this current grouping, there are two bourbons and one blended malt whisky. The different whisk(e)y types that can comprise various Showdowns of this sort beg what I consider an important question: how do identical high scores stack up against one another, irrespective of type? ELIJAH CRAIG BARREL PROOF B520 Clear mahogany color; darkest of the three (Pantone 160). Rich and inviting nose offers classic bourbon notes of brown sugar, coconut, vanilla, oak, and chocolate-covered cherries, a hint of vegetal cilantro, and cool spearmint. Surprisingly (given the 127.2 proof), there is no alcohol burn on the nose. The B520 is effusive on the palate, coating the entire mouth, with nice viscosity. The high proof does make an appearance on the back end, and while this was expected from the very beginning, it comes across as lighter than it is; very well-integrated. The finish is long, with some char, vanilla, and candied marasca cherries. Simply: ECBP B520 is very good. Current releases today can be found for $80-90—if you can find them. This bourbon can hold its own against any other ECBP (I’ve got to have a Showdown between the B517, which was Whisky Advocate’s Whisky of the Year in 2017, as well as the current C923). Would I buy it again? Yes—without question. I consider ECBP in general to be one of the best values in bourbon. I make an effort to buy each triannual release, and I have many of them going back five or six years. 4.5 on the Distiller scale (vs 4.75 on my last review, 6/25/22). 127.2 proof. 12-year age statement. RUSSELL’S RESERVE SINGLE BARREL BOURBON Deep coppered amber color (Pantone 152). Nose shows coconut, like a Mounds candy bar, transitioning to apples, some caramel, sawdust, pumpkin pie, vanilla, and a cooling mint presence. Wonderful palate with leather and pipe tobacco elements. Some oaky char with vanilla and a pleasant rye spiciness on the finish. The alcohol is balanced, and the effect is somewhere between the Kentucky Hug and a “Bardstown Kiss” (though WT is actually closer to Lawrenceburg), though it doesn’t feel 17 proof points below the ECBP B520 (even though it is). Russell’s Reserve Single Barrel can be found for around $65. Would I buy it again? Yes. This is a bourbon that I always have on hand, and I consider it an even better value than the ECBP. 4.25 on the Distiller scale (unchanged from my 6/21/22 review). 110 proof. NAS. JOHNNIE WALKER GREEN LABEL 15 YEAR Lightest in color of the three, with a golden amber akin to Pantone 143. The fruity nose shows apples, gentle smoky peat, yeast rolls, and a little orange zest. The palate is light in terms of mouthfeel, yet the flavors yet the same flavors are noticeable. The finish begins with some white pepper, then the yeast rolls make a second appearance, and finally the gentle smoke, which is very long—the longest of the three. I first bought this whisky based on several recommendations. Frankly, I didn’t much care for it initially, and it sat for some time. But the more I try it, the more I like it. I would love to have this at cask strength, and while I don’t see anything like that on their website, I do see some special editions online in the $3,000 range, but that won’t happen. JW15 can be purchased (when you can find it) for around $65. Would I buy it again? Yes. 4.25 on the Distiller scale. 43% ABV. 15-year age statement. Coloring added (E150a). ON RATINGS (BOILERPLATE) What’s in a rating? Goodness or beauty or merit are each in the eye of the beholder—to an extent. No scoring system or methodology is perfect; however, many if not most can be improved. For example: Distiller uses something akin to a 0-100 scale for its official scores, whereas users are restricted to zero to five in quarter-point increments, and while the community score can get more granular when averaged across numerous users, it is still not aligned with the Distiller score, and should be (@distiller @stephaniemoreno there’s no reason to have two different scoring systems here). Further, for either system: what’s the rationale and methodology? Most 0-100 scales, like school grades, are inflated; in practice, they typically range from perhaps 60 to 100 (meanwhile, Distiller users do employ the entire range of its separate rating system). And in either system, how are the rankings comprised? There are numerous ways it could be done: 33% for nose, 33% for palate, 33% for finish; or adding something for relative value, etc. While this may sound constricting, it’s superior to the chaos of allowing anyone to do it however they want. The benefit of imposing some structure is that while some will ignore it, others would embrace it, which would facilitate better apples-to-apples comparisons. This isn’t a pedantic point. CONCLUSION Each of these whiskies are worthy of their 95-point Distiller score. For this Showdown, my expectation was that the ECBP B520 would overshadow the other two, both in its proof and its intensity. But that wasn’t the case. Not only did the Russell’s Reserve easily stand up to it, but the Johnnie Walker 15 did as well—at a far lower proof. I was frankly shocked. Each of these whiskies occupy different spaces in terms of style and type. The ECBP B520 is “Hazmat level” in terms of proof, with commensurate flavor intensity; the Russell’s Reserve Single Barrel is higher-proofed than typical bourbon, and it’s also a single-barrel offering, so it can experience variation. In my experience over the years, there’s a consistent flavor profile, with an appreciated richness. And the JW15 is of course a blended Scotch whisky. I still can’t get over just how well the JW15 stood up to the other three; it definitely punches above its weight. Further, all three are extremely good values. I ranked the ECBP B520 a quarter point higher than the other two, but not by much. It’s a fuller, richer experience, and everything is integrated with the much higher proof. But that doesn’t mean it’s the “winner”; the different styles are evident, and each is a worthy exemplar of their respective styles. I recently wrote a Showdown review that included Bowmore 18, and I wrote “in my collection, there’s little reason for me to think ‘Hmm, I think I’ll have that Bowmore 18 tonight’ given so many other choices.” And that is a key differentiator, and one I should use along with the “Would I buy it again” criteria. For each of these whiskies, I could ask that question, and there would be many times I’d answer in the affirmative, depending on my mood. All three are very good, and also different. All spirits tasted neat in a Glencairn glass. (N.B.: This review in its entirety is posted for each of the whiskies that are tasted, for the purpose of comparison and context; the reviews are in the same order that the whiskies are listed in at the top.)

I've enjoyed this bourbon a handful of times since my last note on 12/23/23, so I thought I'd jot some notes. I've been spending far more time in my wine collection of late, but this evening is one of those times where, after writing a note on an Argentine Chardonnay and thinking about terroir and minerals and Old-World styles vs New, I needed a safe space amongst those who believe that oak--especially American Oak--and even more specifically, American Oak with a #4 Alligator Char--is not anathema and sacrilegious poison but rather akin to the sweet smell of Mama's home cooking. Yes, oak. American Oak. Charred American Oak. And all of the glorious lactones, tannins, furfurals, lignins, and vanillins that are not reviled but revered. And alcohol, or "ethanol," which is nothing more than lipstick on a pig. A rose by any other name would smell as sweet, etc. In the wine world, high-alcohol wines are sneered at by the cognoscenti as "over-extracted" or "Parkerized" or, even worse, "California," which needs no further explanation. But in the Beautiful Bourbon Bubble, alcohol is euphemized into "Kentucky Hugs" and "Bardstown Kisses" and, occasionally, a "habanero x ghost pepper hybrid with a Scoville rating of two million plus," which is high praised amidst the walled garden of the BBB. As we all already know, Russel’s Reserve is a Wild Turkey product. "Wild Turkey": can a bourbon's name get much better? In just two words we are embraced with Apple-Pie Americana—the Turkey was chosen by none other than Ben Franklin to be our National Bird, even if we did decide it was better coming out of a hot oven than being looked at on the back of a coin. And “wild” conjures Hank Williams Jr., Bo and Luke Duke, The Troggs, Steppenwolf, Van Morrison, Lou Reed, Cat Stevens, the Stones, The Moody Blues, Talking Heads, R.E.M., and even Tone Loc. Something for everyone. “Wild Turkey:” you had me at “Wild.” And “Turkey.” Lots of bourbon typicity here. Caramel, vanilla, chocolate covered cherries, rye spice, and a dusty note that I get with WT products. It’s good. I will buy it again. 4.25+ on the Distiller scale. And let’s not forget the mental accounting. A $60 bottle of wine is about 4.5 glasses, and lasts for maybe two days. A $60 bottle of bourbon? I’ve got several that have been open for years.

I found this bad boy on sale at a liquor store in Cleveland and it’s been a great intro into the world of RR SiB. Nose: for my own curiosity I nosed it straight out of the bottle without resting and quickly got a load of astringent oak and not much else. After resting in a glencairn for 10 minutes it opened up nicely I get nothing but heavy nuttiness that I typically associate with Jim Beam products. Taste: Incredibly smooth and buttery, although not as oily of a mouthfeel as I might expect from a 110 proofer. The nuttiness from the nose follows through big time along with general oakiness you expect from any bourbon. Very light overall but nice depth from the hits of peanut butter throughout. Notes of smooth sweet tea on the finish, really refreshing on this hot summer night. Final thoughts: I wish I knew where to find what specific warehouse this bottle’s from, I’m sure there’s a way to find out but I’m too lazy to figure it out at the moment. I’m really happy with this particular SiB and at $65 I feel like that’s pretty good value. It’s hard to go wrong with any Wild Turkey product in my book and this is no exception

A relatively available, single barrel bourbon that doesn't exceed the $99 price point? Do I have another to add to the regular rotation? So far only Four Roses single barrel occupies that space on my shelf. Let's see how good this stuff really is... Wow is this really 110 proof? The nose is so soft and devoid of ethanol burn. You really have to get in there and give it a solid whiff. Vanilla sugar cookie with some tannic oak and spicy cinnamon dominate on the nose. There is a bit of dryness in there, some leather that adds a bit of bite. The taste opens on a bed of creamy vanilla and toffee but quickly transitions to cinnamon with warming mouthfeel. Rather strong, tannic charred oak comes on song mid taste and brings with it some tongue tingle and burnt sugar. The finish is long and dry. Oak lingers along with leather and baking spices to round out the dram. This single barrel is decidedly dry and spicy. I think I inherently seek out the classic sweet bourbon characteristics so while this isn't my favorite ~ I can appreciate just how complex and different this one is. Well worth the SRP, I say.

Neat: Nose: vanilla, warm baking spices, sugar, Carmel, dill Palate: Carmel, oak, vanilla, rich and full, With a cube Nose: dill & herbs come out, sugar, vanilla, Carmel Palate: sweet, Carmel, powdered sugar, vanilla, oak, rich and full still This is a great bourbon. Everything I like is present. The extra proof is what the regular Russell 10 year needed. The big question for me is: is it significantly different and better than Wild Turkey Rare Breed, which comes from the same distillery? I love Rare Breed and it’s quite a bit less expensive than this Russell. I’ll have to taste them side by side to know.

Butterscotch, candy apple, pumpkin pie, nutmeg, light oak. Chocolate-covered cherries appear on the palate. Warm spices on the back end, with some sweet espresso on the finish. For a sipper, this doesn't get much better: higher-than-average proof, single-barrel uniqueness, and the complexity and spiciness that comes from a high-rye mashbill. Very good bourbon, and I'll always have it on-hand. 4.5 on the Distiller scale.