Kilchoman Loch Gorm (2018 Edition)

Kilchoman Masterclass at The Oak Barrel, Sydney, June 25th 2019: Whisky #4 Nose: Less floral than the bourbon-wood matured Kilchomans, this nose has dark fruits balanced by a well-rounded and spicy bonfire peat-reek with a hint of cigar smoke. There are rich nutty aromas, raisins and chocolate all presenting facets of oloroso sherry. There is an earthiness to the nose, but the 2018 bottling is less maritime than it has been in the past – the bonfire has been moved from the beach to the farmyard. Palate: Rich, smooth, full and rounded arrival with good balance between the key elements. Warm smoke, pipe tobacco, dark cherries, hazelnuts, dark chocolate and raisins – almost like a wood-smoked fruit ‘n nut chocolate bar! A reminiscence of fruitcake. It has a good depth of palate with different notes emerging over time and the texture is luscious and slightly oily. Finish: Medium/long. Smoke and chocolate notes trail into a mouth-watering aftertaste and there are little hints of oloroso sherry and hot spices until the very end. Water makes very little difference to the nose but brings out quite a bit of spice on the palate – clove, black pepper and cayenne all make an appearance. It does, however, thin the texture and the whisky loses overall from dilution. Take this one neat. A rounded and well-integrated whisky, this Loch Gorm is slightly different to prior releases. Most notably it has only a trace of maritime character, but it also seems to have less presence in general than in previous years. However, you could justifiably say that it has gained subtlety, and it is still worth the price of admission. I’m giving this expression a one percentage point lower rating than I gave the 2017 Loch Gorm (which was truly “excellent” at 88/100) but I also think it deserves considerably more than the poor score of 79 given by Distiller - but that’s just my opinion. “Very Good” : 87/100 (4.25 stars)

I rarely find myself having a significant disagreement with Distiller's reviewers, but in this case, I can't believe we were consuming the same whiskey.  I took a picture of the bottle at the bar, and I definitely was drinking the 2018. But my experience was much more consistent with the Distiller review of the 2017. Anyway... This was the second of three whiskeys that I sampled at the awesome Flatiron Room in Manhattan. I've been building up my collection of whiskeys at home, so when I try a whiskey I inevitably ask myself of it's something I want to buy. Of the three Kilchomans I've tasted prior to the Loch Gorm, both the Machir Bay and Sanaig were nice, but fell just short. The 2008 made the cut. The Loch Gorm definitely qualifies as a purchase. It's bold, peaty and reasonably complex.   Although the notes are similar to the 2008, the 2008 seems to play with the volume at 5, whereas the Loch Gorm is at 8 or 9. 

Ok 2018 head to head with the 2019 which wins? It's perhaps not a fair contest as the 2019 bottle has been open for several months whereas the 2018 sample is only open for a hour. The 2018 had water however the 2019 didn't. The 2019 is lighter creamer dram even without water. The 2018 is a bit more rugged with more bite, not quite as well integrated with the alcohol. It does have more distinct flavours coming out than the 2019 perhaps as the latter has been opened for a long time. I like different aspects of both but I'd say the 2019 does it for me at 4.25 the 2018 at 3.75 to 4. Close but no cigar (unfortunately for me!)

Nose - Bananas, cinnamon, dark fruit, sherry, overall fairly sweet with a touch of campfire. Palate - Mellow start that intensifies. Straw, Honey, Earthy with a nice amount of Peat Smoke. Full bodied and well balanced. Finish - A nice medium length. The burn descends with a raisin tobacco linger for more

A full-on nutty sherry profile on the nose, but surprisingly thin on the palate. Given time, flavors of dry fruit and creme brûlée topping emerge. Delicious, but a step down from the Sanaig’s blend of sherry and bourbon casks.

Peat obvious on the nose. It's a sherry cask, but you'd be hard pressed to tell from the flavour. A fairly ordinary moderately peaty Islay.