Lagavulin Distillers Edition

DISTILLER-SCORE SHOWDOWN: 96-POINT DISTILLER-RATED WHISKIES COMPASS BOX HEDONISM BOWMORE 18-YEAR LAPHROAIG 10-YEAR LAPHROAIG 15-YEAR 200TH ANNIVERSARY LAGAVULIN DISTILLER’S EDITION TALISKER 10-YEAR (Caveat lector: somewhat unexpectedly, this became a long-form review.) In my never-ending quest to educate my own palate and attempt to both explore the aesthetics of whisk(e)y and quantify qualitative scoring, I’ve been thinking about different Showdown possibilities. For this one, I decided to rank my collection by the Distiller “expert” score in descending order (@distiller, @stephaniemoreno, why am I able to do this on the app, but not on the website?), and start from there. Currently, I have one 97-point bottle (the Compass Box, which met its emptiness at this tasting), and five 96-pointers, so I grouped them all together. As a result, this Showdown (and others like it that I plan to do in the future) will usually not be an apples-to-apples comparison: first, there are different reviewers providing the official Distiller scores. Second, the scores are given irrespective of type: in this current grouping, all are Scotch whiskies: the Compass Box is a blended grain whisky, and the other five are single malts, and (coincidentally?) happen to be Islay. But as I continue doing this type of Showdown, a group might include Irish and Japanese whiskey, American bourbon, Scotch whisky, and the like. How do high scores stack up against one another as far as different types of whiskies are concerned? A thoughtful tasting of six whiskies is no small challenge. From a combinatorial perspective, this is an “n-choose-k” problem. To simply compare two whiskies side-by-side in a set of six, there are 15 possible combinations. Choosing three from six results in 20 different combinations. Suffice to say, the empirical analysis (or ”work”) behind this Showdown will surely take a few days (I’m aiming for three). I plan to sample three whiskies on consecutive nights, with brief notes on each, and then all six on the final night. Very small pours, I assure you. Let’s get started. COMPASS BOX HEDONISM Pale straw color (Pantone 121); clearly no added coloring. Fruity nose with papaya, a little grapefruit, and tangerines, as well as marzipan, a little tanginess, and vanilla. The mouthfeel shows gobs of glycerin, and oaky vanilla notes become predominant on the palate. There’s the tiniest pinch of white pepper on the back end, and then the finish is more vanilla, with some of that woody tannic bitterness I noticed on my last review. If “hedonism” is just another word for “vanilla bomb,” then Compass Box Hedonism nails it. And in case you couldn’t ferret that out, fear not: the words “RICH—VANILLA—ALLURING” shout it out to you in ALL CAPS right on the front label. This vanilla is exacerbated when tasted following any of the other whiskies in this Showdown. Per my review on 10/11/23, 30% of this whisky is 20 years old, and over 9% is 26 years old, all from first-fill bourbon casks, so the vanilla is perhaps unsurprising given the long wood contact. This Compass Box expression can be found for ~$120. Would I buy it again? No. 2.5 on the Distiller scale (unchanged from my 11/11/23 review). 43% ABV. Non chill filtered. No added coloring. Series MMXVI-C. BOWMORE 18-YEAR Color is a clear russet mahogany (Pantone 153). Nose shows the sherry influence with dates, rugelach, brown sugar, and cocoa over a foundation of more typical Islay peat, smoke, iodine, salt, band-aid, and seaweed. These same sweet and savory notes continue on the palate, with well-integrated alcohol (not difficult considering the hoi polloi 43% ABV). The medium-length finish continues with a straightforward version of the same sweet and savory elements. Bowmore 18 competes with (and compares to) other sherry-cask-finished Islay scotches like Lagavulin Distiller’s Edition and Ardbeg Uigeadail. But the Lagavulin DE has the B18 beat on the sweet and the peat, and while the Oogie lacks an age statement, it’s in a completely different league in terms of power and complexity, offering a richer, more satisfying experience than the B18. But wait, you might say: what if I prefer less-ostentatious, more gentle whiskies rather than cask strength ones? There’s a difference between a whisky that is elegant and refined versus one which has a not-dissimilar gentleness but lacks complexity. The Laphroaig 15-year 200th Anniversary Edition is an exemplar of the former, whereas the Bowmore 18 is part of the latter group. It’s not a powerful whisky, which is a matter of preference, but it lacks the elegance and complexity of the L15. And you might say: “But the L15 is a special release; it’s not the same thing.” To which I’d reply: “exactly.” And that’s the point. They are scored at 96 points. Ultimately it begs the question: why? I’d certainly drink the Bowmore 18 again, but in my collection, there’s little reason for me to think “Hmm, I think I’ll have that Bowmore 18 tonight” given so many other choices. I do not mean that in a haughty way. But when one has worked their way through literally hundreds of different whiskies—including many in side-by-side Showdown format—the interesting ones become apparent, especially when price is considered. B18 can be purchased for around $150. It’s nice, but not “special” nice. Not 96-point nice. I’m happy to have had a bottle for empirical purposes, but would I buy it again? No. 3.5 on the Distiller scale (up from 3.0 on my 10/3/23 review). 43% ABV. 18-year age statement. Chill-filtered. Coloring added (E150a). LAPHROAIG 10-YEAR Clear and non-adulterated straw color (Pantone 143). Nose shows peat smoke, kelp, iodine, Band Aid, bacon fat, sage, fresh figs, white pepper, apple, speck, and orange marmalade. The palate has a fig and honeyed sweetness, and if you didn’t know better you’d swear that you’d have just licked the slicked seasoning of a cast-iron griddle after years of service. Mild alcohol given the cornucopia of flavors (this needs a higher proof, and the Cask Strength version delivers on that point), and the finish is long with some light fruity elements and both peat smoke and ash. Laphroaig 10 is an iconic Islay whiskey that is readily available for around $50. While the “burning hospital” flavor profile can be somewhat polarizing, this is one of the most complex whiskies out there and represents one of the best values in all of whiskyland. Would I buy it again? Damn right I would. 4.5 on the Distiller scale (up from 4.25 on my 11/17/23 review). Somewhat tangentially: how is it that Laphroaig 10, as good as it is, is ranked by Distiller two to four points higher than various numbered batches of its Cask Strength older brother, which is a purer and inherently more complex form of the junior version? This is in part a rhetorical questions, but it is a question worth asking. I poured some Cask Strength Batch 13 to compare, and if Laphroaig is 96 points, then the Cask Strength should be eve higher. 43% ABV. 10-year age statement. Coloring added (E150a). LAPHROAIG 15-YEAR 200TH ANNIVERSARY Bright amber (Pantone 123). Nose shows cocoa powder, honey, gardenia, apple crumble, gentle peat, scones with strawberry jam, iodine, kombu, nori, damp cardboard box, smoke. On the palate, it’s light on its feet, with some of the same honeyed sweetness from the nose, followed by white pepper, salt, copious ash, and lingering smoked meat on the finish. L15 is sophisticated, graceful, and wonderfully complex. Because of its scarcity as a limited release, online prices now range from $500 to $1,000. Would I buy it again? Yes, at the price I originally paid (a little more than $100, if memory serves). I’m fortunate (and happy) to have it. 4.5 on the Distiller scale (unchanged from my 11/17/23 review). 43% ABV. 15-year age statement. Coloring added (E150a). LAGAVULIN DISTILLER’S EDITION Deep orange amber (Pantone 139), darker than the L15. Dates, raisins, prunes, banana baby food, Frangelico, milk chocolate, and a whiff of vanilla on the nose, all covering the typical Lag16 kelp and iodine notes, as well as some Sharpie, like a thin blanket—the Lag16 typicity is there, but underneath the covers. The palate greets you with a hit of brown-sugar simple syrup, and then the blanket is removed, revealing classic Lag16 notes of kelp, iodine, and smoke. Some white pepper, brief brown sugar, and lingering smoke on the finish. From nose to finish, LDE moves from sweet to peat. This is a far more sophisticated and elegant example of marrying Islay malts with sherry casks than either Bowmore 18 or Ardbeg’s Uigeadail (not part of this tasting due to its Distiller score, but I did pour a tiny bit for comparative purposes). Lagavulin Distiller’s Edition can be had for around $110. Would I buy it again? Yes. 4.25 on the Distiller scale (down from 4.5 on my 7/29/22 review). 43% ABV. 16-year age statement. Batch lgv. 4/507. Coloring added (E150a). TALISKER 10-YEAR Clear burnt orange amber (Pantone 138). Cotton-candy-like sweetness. Grape Kool-Aid drink mix. Powdered cocoa. Apple pie and a little smoke. Smoky peat and BBQ sauce. Oily mouthfeel; more viscous than the L15 and LDE. Honey and concentrated pear extract on the palate. White pepper, honeyed biscuits (American, not English), brown-sugared oatmeal, and smoky peat on the finish. Talisker 10 has always been one of my favorite Scotch whiskies. That opinion is reinforced here. It’s more powerful and more youthful than any of the whiskies to this point—yet despite its relative youth, still very complex. Talisker 10 can be purchased for around $65. Would I buy it again? Yes. I don’t have a choice. Incredible value. 4.25 on the Distiller scale (up from 4.0 on my 10/11/23 review). 45.8% ABV. 10-year age statement. Coloring added (E150a). E150a RANT I’m beginning to learn more about E150a, which is caramel coloring that distillers often add to whisky to enhance appearance (see https://whiskipedia.com/fundamentals/spirit-caramel). There is zero—zero—reason why an ostensibly high-end whisky with an age statement should have artificial coloring. On a prior review of Bowmore 18 (10/3/23), I wrote: “the added coloring is for all intents and purposes lying. What is the point? What is there to hide? What is the rationale?” None of these whiskies are bottom-shelf. Their target market is the whisky connoisseur. Tradition and simplicity and rules are what make Scotch whisky what it is: it is made from only cereal grains, water, and yeast; must be matured at least 3 years in oak casks; etc. (specifics: https://www.scotch-whisky.org.uk/insights/protecting-scotch-whisky/legal-protection-in-the-uk/). Neither extra flavoring nor sweetening is allowed. Why then is coloring? If a whisky is dark (like Edradour 10, which uses no coloring), I want to know that it’s dark because of the natural cask maturation process—NOT because it’s being “faked.” Germany requires full ingredient disclosure for whisky sold there, including whether or not E150a is added. So you can go to a site such as https://www.scoma.de (there is an option to select German or English, but there’s no reason to select English if you don’t know German because the disclosure language is in German); type in a whisky like “Lagavulin”; select the “Produktdetails” (German) or “Product Details” (English), and then the German “Farbstoff” or the English “Coloring”, and then you’ll see (in German, regardless of what language is selected) if coloring is added or not. “Yes” is ” Ja, Zuckerkulör E150a”, and “No” is “Nein.” I believe strongly that serious consumers of high-end whisky want the truth—that is, what is “real.” Springbank whiskies are typically of a light color. Why? Because they do not use coloring. And no serious whisky lover rejects them on that basis. Compass Box also sells expensive whisky that has no added coloring, and no one rejects them on that basis. Why do Bowmore (the 18 is fairly dark) and Laphroaig (less so) and Lagavulin add color in varying degrees? It’s fraudulent. And from an economic perspective: one less ingredient is one less cost. Why are these distillers trying to pull the wool over our eyes? If there’s still one reader who has made it this far, weigh in in the comments! CONCLUSION What’s in a rating? Goodness or beauty or merit are each in the eye of the beholder—to an extent. No scoring system or methodology is perfect; however, many if not most can be improved. For example: Distiller uses something akin to a 0-100 scale for its official scores, whereas users are restricted to zero to five in quarter-point increments, and while the community score can get more granular when averaged across numerous users, it is still not aligned with the Distiller score, and should be (@distiller @stephaniemoreno there’s no reason to have two different scoring systems here). Further, for either system: what’s the rationale and methodology? Most 0-100 scales, like school grades, are inflated; in practice, they typically range from perhaps 60 to 100 (meanwhile, Distiller users do employ the entire range of its separate rating system). And in either system, how are the rankings comprised? There are numerous ways it could be done: 33% for nose, 33% for palate, 33% for finish; or adding something for relative value, etc. While this may sound constricting, it’s superior to the chaos of allowing anyone to do it however they want. The benefit of imposing some structure is that while some will ignore it, others would embrace it, which would facilitate better apples-to-apples comparisons. This isn’t a pedantic point. In this Showdown, two whiskies are outliers relative to the others: the Compass Box Hedonism and the Bowmore 18. The Compass Box is monolithic by its own admission (VANILLA shouted on the label), and I concur. It’s not that the whisky is bad in and of itself. But one-dimensional whisky, or nearly so—especially expensive one-dimensional whisky—isn’t worthy of 96 points. Aside from the quite-old whisky in the blend, there isn’t anything to justify its super-premium price. John Glaser is to be admired for his transparency; the disclosure of the specifics of the blend is amazing, and this forthrightness should be an example for all producers. The same goes for the fact that there’s no added caramel coloring (E150a). But that doesn’t change the way the whisky drinks. The Bowmore 18 is more egregious that the others in this Showdown with its darker artificial coloring. There are better, and cheaper, whiskies in the same style; there’s no “must-have” aspect for a whisky that is rated 96 points by Distiller and retails for $150. The others are exceptional for different reasons. The Laphroaig 10 represents tremendous value for its “burning hospital meets beehive” complexity at a $50 price tag. The Laphroaig 15 200th Anniversary Edition is a fine exemplar of restraint and grace—not simplicity—with the added benefit of a 15-year age statement. The Lagavulin Distiller’s Edition strikes the sweet/peat balance better than the Bowmore 18, with a sophistication above another offering in that same space—Ardbeg Uigeadail (which was sampled in this tasting for comparison, but not reviewed because while I do own it, it is not scored 96 or better by Distiller). And finally, the Talisker 10 also represents tremendous value for a youthful, more powerful Islay that has both sweet and peat characteristics that attack your senses, offering intellectual and hedonistic pleasure. These four are winners in this Showdown for different reasons, and are worthy of a high Distiller score. All spirits tasted neat in a Glencairn glass. (N.B.: This review in its entirety is posted for each of the whiskies that are tasted, for the purpose of comparison and context; the reviews are in the same order that the whiskies are listed in at the top.)

ISLAY SHOWDOWN 2: HEAVYWEIGHT DIVISION Laphroaig 15 200th Anniversary Edition vs Lagavulin 16 vs Lagavulin Distiller’s Edition In my last note, “NEW AND OLD ISLAY SHOWDOWN,” I envisioned a comparison between two old flames: Laphroaig 10 and Lagavulin 16. Then I thought the comparison wasn’t apples-to-apples due to the age difference, and I subbed the Lag16 with Lagavulin 8. So today, I bring out some big(ger) guns—all very close in age. Laphroaig 15 200th Anniversary Edition was a limited edition bottling (72,000 released) introduced on the 200th anniversary of Laphroaig’s founding in 1815 (Laphroaig previously had a 15-year-old whisky in its lineup which was discontinued). Lagavulin 16 needs no introduction. And the Lagavulin Distiller’s edition is Lag16 “double matured” and finished in PX sherry casks; this particular bottle is batch 4/507, distilled 2002, bottled 2018. Each is 43% ABV. Lagavulin 16 is, of course, an iconic whisky, and there’s nothing new that I’ll provide here. This is true to a lesser extent with the Distiller’s Edition. The Laphroaig 15 200th Anniversary Edition is a very limited bottling, and I hope to offer some vicarious insight. My primary purpose here is to build on my previous “Islay Showdown” note, share a side-by-side comparison, and have some fun in the process. Laphroaig 15 200th Anniversary Edition Color is lightest of the three; clear pale amber. Laphroaig’s tagline is “The most richly flavoured of all Scotch whiskies”; but this one, despite the increased age, is more subdued than its younger brother was last night. Fruity peach nose and some baking spices coupled with typical Islay notes of seaweed and smoky peat, with just a whiff of iodine. Peaks on the palate, where the mild 43% ABV punches above its weight. Gentle smoky peat with a touch of vanilla on the finish. In terms of intensity: mild nose, peaks midpalate, and mild finish. From a bourbon perspective, this is the Blanton’s or Elmer T. Lee of Islay whisky: seamless, refined, even subtle, but confident in what it is. And what it is it does very well. 4.5 on the Distiller scale. Lagavulin 16 Color is a tawny amber, deeper and somewhat darker than the Laph15. There’s little I can provide that isn’t already known about such an iconic whiskey, and if you’re reading this, you already this. For me, the nose is not particularly effusive, but swirling coaxes a host of aromas: along with Islay typicity, there is a citrus sweetness not unlike Licor 43, and even a tanginess that could pass for Heinz 57 (!). Smoky peat on the long finish. The same 43% ABV is not as noticeable as it was with the Laph15/200; this could be a function of the more mellow (though still very complex) tones of the Laph15/200, or the slightly more pronounced olfactory and flavor attributes of Lag16. 4.5 on the Distiller scale. Lagavulin Distiller’s Edition Darkest of the three due to the sherry cask finishing. On the nose, the sherry casks have a dampening (but not suppressing) effect on the seaweed, iodine, and smokey peat, adding complexity with hazelnut, dates, and some brown sugar. Despite being the same 43% ABV as the others, the heat is slightly more noticeable than its Lag16 sibling. Slightly weightier mouthfeel. Everything in balance, with more components. Just outstanding. For context: in the sherry-meets-Islay world, this is a Porsche 911 Turbo S in GT Silver Metallic, whereas Ardbeg Uigeadail is a Ferrari LaFerrari in Rosso Corsa: both incredible automobiles, but the former is more refined. 4.5 on the Distiller scale. If you’ve read this far, there’s really no winner here. This is not an “everyone gets a trophy” space—except it is, in this case. Each is phenomenal in its own right. These whiskies are not facsimilies of one another; there is diversity even in the confines of Islay whisky. On a value basis, Lag16 is the clear winner. It is widely available in the U.S. and can typically be found for around $90. The Distiller’s Edition has more limited production, and can be found for $110-120 in the U.S. The Laphroaig 15 200th Anniversary Edition was a limited edition, and can be found online for around $300 in the U.S. (I think I paid about a third of that a few years ago). While there are Islay-specific similarities between the three, they exhibit real differences, but no hard edges or deficiencies when tasted side-by-side. Each is deserving of contemplative, unadulterated consumption. Forget water; this is 43% ABV. Drink it neat. Nose it. Swirl it. Savor it. Enjoy it. Share it. And be thankful for it. In a word: Laphroaig 15/200: Peachy. Lagavulin 16: Outdoorsy. Lagavulin Distiller’s Edition: Urbane. N.B. All spirits tasted neat in a Glencairn glass.

Happy Father's Day to me. Happy Father's Day to my dad, who to me is the most amazing dad in the history of dads. I'm gonna let you in on something, I'm drunk right now, so you're about to see typos. I'm gonna let you in on something else, it's because of this bottle, this bottle that I bought a month ago, knowing that this was going to be the bottle I opened on this day to celebrate how much I love that guy. So, we both love Islay, we both love peat, we both love smoke. And I had my eye on this one, because, well, reputation, and the community rating here has this at 4.5. So, it's an obvious choice. If you haven't read some of my older reviews, let me sum up that sharing a scotch is the way me and my dad can start to relate. Once we share the scotch we get to talking and once we get to talking we have a good time and we realize how much we're alike and how similar the shit we go through on a day-to-day level is the same. So, I know you're interested in the scotch, but allow me first to have a little room for an aside. I have the most awesome kids any dad could hope for. They're nine and almost seven. And yesterday, they went to the Farmer's Market with their mom to get me gifts for today. And what did they get? Thoughtful ass shit! is what they got. My daughter bought me four chocolate whoopie pies with peanut butter filling and my son got me some local homemade hot sauce, and if you're a fan of Islay don't tell me you're not a fan of hot sauce; in fact, if you're a fan of whisky whether it be bourbon, scotch, Irish or rye, I'm pretty sure you all like the hot sauce, am I wrong? And my wife bought me a copy of Bull Durham on Blu ray, so I had a pretty good Father's day, are you feeling me? Then, a week back, my wife said, why don't you invite your mom and dad, because I'd like to roast a chicken and make a mole negro, and I was like, sounds dope. So, when you cross reference all that with a bottle of Lagavulin Distiller's, do you understand the kind of day I've had? Amazing. So I'm going to tell you that at 110$ this is the most expensive bottle I've ever bought, and I can't deny that that plays a role. But I am also going to assure you that if the bottle sucked, I would tell you that too. The only other whisky I've ever given a 4.75 is Laphroaig 2021 Cairdeas PX, which was amazing. Also peated, also finished in PX sherry casks, but whereas that was younger but cask strength, this was older and bottle at 86 proof. And this one was similar, but subtle. The nose was sweet and smoky, salted caramel, smoked meats, the palate similar with fruit notes added and a great lingering finish. Splashing with water makes it floral, like not just a garden but a forest of flowers, it mutes the smoke and brings forth the caramel as well as adding a note of black licorice. Overall, mighty tasty, and a nice glass to raise a toast to those putting in the world of raising the kids. Would I buy it again? No doubt. Did we finish half the bottle in the course of three hours? You bet. Wait, where are my kids? Oh, that's right, they're in bed. Don't worry. I drank responsibly. Whatever that means....

Drinking the 2005 DE (Bottled in 2020) batch no. lgv. 4/509. Good. God. Okay so with this bottle, the iconic laga peat smoke is wrapped in a rich vibrant sweetness that I can only describe as bold, dark and sophisticated The nose has a dense vanilla (think extract) and a toasted note, light brine, and dried fruits like raisins. That raisin note continues onto the palate, where its met with a rich bitter chocolate, molasses, fig and underripe plum. The salt also kicks up a notch on tasting. All the while, that all-to-recognizable meaty peat smoke is ever-present. But it never runs away with your palate. Its balanced by the bold rich sweetness and dried fruits so elegantly the whole way through. I cant believe I’m saying this, but this may have surpassed the 16 for the title of my favorite Laga. I was beginning to think I would never say that. But the PX sherry cask finish really gives it a balance unlike anything. That same mistifying and baffling cool, minty (eucalyptus?) finish is there. It still magically goes from deep dense smoke to a vaporous cooling note somehow. But now its almost as though its wrapped in yet another layer. It’s as dynamic and interesting as the 16, but it’s almost like it’s refined older cousin. Savoring this bottle for sure. My favorite Laga to date, and just a hair shy of a perfect rating for me.

I last reviewed this whisky nearly two years ago. Allow me to set the table (context is everything): tonight is a cool, cloudy, and contemplative Connecticut evening. Earlier I tasted (and reviewed) the Laphroaig 10-Year Sherry Cask Finish. Which led me to taste (and review) the Ardbeg Uigeadail. Which of course logically led me to the Lagavulin Distiller's Edition. Three sherry-finished Islays. I could continue this thread, but discretion being the better part of valor, I promise to conclude once this third review is finished. Dear reader (or is there a second one now?): I've twice rated this whisky 4.5 on the Distiller scale, and (spoiler alert) I see no reason to deviate from that decision. The Lag DE is more refined than the medicinal and kaleidoscopic Laphroaig and the nearly psychedelic Uigeadail. It's not as if the sweet merely joined the peat (Laphroaig) or turbocharged it (Ardbeg) but rather tamed it, or reacted with it and created something new, somehow coalescing into a cohesive whole that is distinct from the others. There is bacon fat and butterscotch; cigar and caramel; scallion and saline; vinegar and vineyards. It is light and ethereal in comparison to the other two. Would I buy it again? As long as I have two pennies to rub together. 4.5 on the Distiler scale.

Lagavulin 16 is among my favorite pours, so i was very intrigued to try this expression. The nose's immediate sensation is a potent mix of campfire smoke, barbeque, bacon, and sea salt - classic Islay peat monster - but give it a bit and the sherry notes come through. Palate is quite complex, while at the same time more mellow than the 16. Oak, tobacco, sea salt, grass and other pungent flavors merge with citrus, cinnamon, and dried fruit. It takes a while to unpack. The finish is where the sherry cask finishing really shows itself: a mix of sherry and dried fruit with significant peatiness that seems to linger forever. This is a very complex whisky that seasoned drinkers will not tire of u packing. It's a different enough experience from the smokier and more bombastic 16 to warrant keeping both around. It's gentler and less peaty, while still packing enough of that signature smoke and heaviness to keep Lagavulin fans happy. Picture this as Lagavulin's unplugged album. Outstanding.